It’s been over a week since I arrived here in Beirut and my, not entirely sure what I think. My initial impression is that it’s a city with a definite personality dysfunction: huge shopping malls and ultra sophisticated cafe/clubbing culture runs side by side with ruined shells of building riddled with bullet holes and heavily armed soldiers in tanks. The only comparison I can think of is to a French Tel Aviv – probably a comparison that would get me lynched by both sides.
Charming, it is not – indeed, if I was travelling, I would probably get out of the city as soon as I could. That said, I haven’t exactly seen it at its best, or at mine for that matter. I haven’t visited the more touristy parts of Beirut or the Corniche (the road along the beachfront) which is apparently meant to be spectacular. The only parts I have visited are the more residential/party areas which aren’t loads of fun by yourself, when rather tired, and in the rain. Yep, it’s rainy. And cold. Thinking about getting my money back as it’s not the Mediterranean climate I signed up for...
To say a few words to combat a fairly negative first impression, I do think this has a potential to be great city for living once you find your niche – very similar to London in that respect. Whereas Paris is more immediately gorgeous, London has more of that “alive” feeling: a feeling of energy and possibilities. It has all the amenities you could wish for – far too many clothes shop (all shipped over from London or Paris), and in terms of my own particular interests, a huge 5 floor Virgin Megastore (one of several) and at least 3 multiplex cinemas within walking distance. Haven’t checked out the bookshops (one thing that huge nearby mall is lacking in, like most malls in the world) but I’ve been told that there are a few near the American University. And did I mention a number of DVD rentals? In terms of less geeky amenities, I’m near a huge supermarket which looks like it’s been imported directly from France (crappy selection of crisps but good for everything else) and there are roads where every building appears to be a restaurant or club or cafe.
People in Beirut obviously like the good life. Or shall we say the good commercial life. But hey, should have realised this from the huge number of Lebanese businessmen I’ve met all over the world – including war zones.
I’m currently staying in a four star hotel until I can get a place for myself, and actually getting rather sick of the place. I know, strange. It’s just very impersonal – one of those anonymous corporate hotel places where you have to pay through the nose for everything (3 quid to launder one pair of trousers – no thank you). And I’ve become far more conversant with CNN than anyone really should have to. My fault for being lazy in the evenings but haven’t really mustered up the energy to explore the city – especially when it’s been rainy and cold. Also, most of last week was basically sleeping and recovering from my marathon 72 hours sans sleep due to last minute arrangements and packing. I don’t know how I did it either. When I got here, I was told that they were astonished that I could get out here in less than a month. Oh well, lesson for the future – don’t rush your departure.
That brings me to work. That’s a bit mixed actually. As some of you probably know, I’m working for an NGO which apparently has more brand recognition in the States than Nike!! Nice to work for an organisation that people have heard of... I love my boss – he’s really sweet and we really get on, and the other people seem all friendly and easy to work with. The main issue is the actual work. There’s quite a lot of initial set up and organisational stuff to do in terms of formulating policy and setting up proper controls and a proper accounting system – this place doesn’t even have a security policy! But that would probably take 3 months at the very most and I’m not sure what use I’d be after that. Also, there’s only one project to look after and my department (all two of them) seems rather overstaffed for the work there is to do. I think I’m just used to having three times the workload and half the staff to do it.
In some ways, this is a pretty good situation to be in – what work there is not hugely challenging but still things which are new to me, and there’s always the fact that it looks like I’ll be having a great “work-life” balance for the next 6 months so that I can concentrate on learning Arabic and finishing my MSc. And Dan has promised to give me more programmatic stuff to do if I’m at a loss. Leaving on time would be good for me, if rather strange. This is probably Fate’s way to tell me to get a life outside work. Not sure if I can do it but really should try. And knowing my luck, something will change and I’ll be complaining here about the impossible workload and demands being made on me...
That’s all for now. I’d better go and see if I can understand Lebanese politics. For a country of a mere 4 million, they have a lot of politics. Flat hunting tomorrow – wish me luck!
